Rzeka Rospuda, szlak kajakowy i historia

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RZEKA ROSPUDA – nazwa rzeki i obydwóch jezior: Rospudy Filipkowskiej i Augustowskiej jest wynikiem zniekształcenia przez osadników z Mazowsza starej jaćwieskiej nazwy „Daus-pude”, co oznaczało „mocno naciskająca”. Rzeka dawniej zwana była: Dowspudą, Rowspudą, Kamienną, a w okolicach Filipowa – Filipówką. Dopływ Netty, dł. 80,7 km. Przepływa przez 2 krainy: Pojez. Suwalskie i Równinę Augustowską. Początek rzeki na morenach stanowiących przedpole Puszczy Romnickiej. Ważny szlak kajakowy o dł. 71,5 km, w tym 30 km po wodach stojących i 41 km z prądem rzeki. Przepływa przez i m / 8 jezior wpadając do 9-go – Rospudy Augustowskiej.

JEZIORO KAMIENNE – rynnowe, dno piaszczyste, na brzegach liczne duże kamienie. Powierzchnia 38,5 ha; śr.głęb.66,4 m; maks. 20 m; dł.2130 m; leży na wysokości 173 m npm. Jezioro typu leszczowego. Strefa ciszy!

FILIPÓW – nadanie praw miejskich w 1570 r., utrata – 1870 r.,(w herbie miejskim – rak), w XVI w. ośrodek arianizmu. W1656 r. bitwa w czasie wojen szwedzkich – zniszczenie miasta. Maksymalny rozwój miasta – początek XIX w. W miejscowości: neogotycki kościół – rozbudowany; obok niego drewniana dzwonnica i murowana zabytkowa plebania oraz 4 cmentarze: katolicki, ewangielicki, mariawitów i żydowski.

JEZIORO DŁUGIE – dno żwirowo-kamieni-ste. Pow. 15 ha; średnia głęb. 3 m; maks. 5 m. Leży na wysokości 165,8 m npm. Długość 1250 m; szerokość do 250 m. Możliwość połowu szczupaka, leszcza, okonia, płoci i karasia.

GARBAŚ – we wsi resztki parku podworskiego. Jeden kilometr na zachód głaz narzutowy uznany za pomnik przyrody, jego obwód wynosi 10 metrów.

JERIORO GARBAŚ – rynnowe, j oligotroficzne. Pow. 137,5 –f-ha; średnia głęb. 20,9 m; ! maks. 48 m. Długość – 3450 m, średnia szerokość 400 m; a maks. 700m. Leży na wysokości 163,3 m npm. Dużo miejsc do kąpieli, uwaga na gwałtowne spadki stoków dna.

JEZIORO SIEKIEREWO – śródleśne bezodpływowe; brzegi suche. Powierzchnia 25 ha; średnia głębokość 7 m. Leży na wysokości 166,9 m npm. Od doliny Rospudy oddzielone garbem morenowym o szer. 200 m.

BAKAŁARZEWO – wieś; nazwa pierwotna Dowspuda Bakałarzewska pochodząca od nazwiska właściciela okolicznych dóbr (XVI w.). Dawniej miasto, od 1870 r. wieś, obecnie duża wieś gminna. Duże zniszczenia w czasie II wojny światowej (90 % zabudowy). We wsi: kościół parafialny z 1936 r., w nim późnorenesansowa nastawa ołtarza (XVII w.) – najstarszy zachowany ruchomy zabytek sztuki Suwalszczyzny oraz młyn wodny na Rospudzie (XIX/XX w.)

JEZIORO SUMOWO – dawniej zwane Somowo. Rynnowe, rybne typu sandaczowo-leszczowego. Powierzchnia 81 ha; śr. głębokość 8 m; maks. 13,6 m; długość 3450 m, szerokość 350 m. Leży na wysokości 151,7 m npm. Do jeziora wpada 5 strumieni – na zachodnim brzegu. Dogodne miejsca do biwaków i kąpieli, przy brzegu płytka piaszczysta ławica, później spadek w głąb jeziora. W pobliżu jeziora ciąg ozów subglacjalnych o dł. 2 km, łagodnych, wydłużonych wzgórz i grzbietów. Całość przykryta warstwą glin zwałowych o grubości 1 – 2 m.

JEZIORO KARASIEWEK – niewielkie jezioro połączone strugą z Rospudą. Powierzchnia 12,5 ha, średnia głębokość 8 m, maks. 17,5 m; dł. 500 m, szer. 300 m. Leży na wysokości 161,5 m npm.

JEZIORO BOLESTY – rynnowe, przypomina szeroką rozlaną rzekę, najdłuższe jezioro na szlaku kajakowym Rospudy, o charakterze oligotroficzno-eutroficznym, uboga roślinność wodna. Przy brzegach szybki spadek głębokości. Pow. 116,5 ha; śr.głęb. 7 m, maks.16,2 m; dł. 5800 m, śr.szer. 350 m. Leży na wysokości 149,6 m npm. W dawnych dokumentach nazywane było Jeziorem Długim.

DOWSPUDA – miejscowość znana z słynnego pałacu Michała Paca (1778-1835) położonego na wysokiej skarpie Rospudy. Zachowany rozległy park -13 ha z wieloma cennymi gatunkami drzew. Pałac w stylu angielskiego neogotyku projektowali i budowali włoscy architekci w latach 1820-1 823. Całość założenia architektonicznego w czasach świetności odpowiadała powiedzeniu: „Wart Pac pałaca, a pałac Paca”. Po konfiskacie dóbr Pacowi przez cara pałac uległ zniszczeniu. Mury rozebrano w 1887 r., a cegłę sprzedano na koszary w Suwałkach. Zachowała się do dzisiejszych czasów: tzw. Wieża Bociania, arkadowy portyk wjazdowy, fundamenty podpiwniczenia pałacu właściwego oraz przy wejściu budynek stajni i psiarni (obecnie internat szkoły).

RACZKI – wieś gminna, dawniej miasto przy trakcie z Grodna do Prus. Powstała około połowy XVI w. Dawna nazwa -Dowspuda (Raczkowska). Przywileje handlowe miasto otrzymało od Jana III Sobieskiego, miejskie od Augusta III w 1703 r. Zakupione dobra w 1748 r. odziedziczył po poprzedniku Ludwik Michał Pac. Rozbudowane, ufundował kościół, uruchomił wiele zakładów przemysłowych. W 1870 roku utrata praw miejskich, początek zapaści miasta -spowodowana została konfiskatą dóbr Paca za jego udział w Powstaniu Listopadowym. Znaczne zniszczenia w czasie II wojny światowej. W miejscowości: zachowany układ przestrzenno-urbanistyczny, klasycystyczny kościół murowany projektowany przez Piotra Aignera, przebudował Henryk Mar-conii. Inne zabytki: kilkanaście domów drewnianych i murowanych (poł. XIX w.), budynek dawnej manufaktury pacowskiej.

CHODORKI – wieś, powstała w XVI w., nazwa od imienia ruskiego Chodor = Fiodor = Teodor. Początkowo zamieszkała przez ludność ruską.

ŚWIĘTE MIEJSCE – uroczysko, od dawna miejsce modłów okolicznej ludności i rytualnych posiłków, a także obmywania się w pobliskiej rzeczce Jałówce w dniu 24 czerwca. Prawdopodobnie pozostałość obyczajów (święto Jordana) ludności prawosławnej, obecnie zanikłej. Na miejscu drewniana kapliczka i zbiorowisko krzyży: kamiennych i drewnianych.

PUSZCZA AUGUSTOWSKA – jeden z największych leśnych kompleksów w Polsce. Porasta sandrową Równinę Augustowską. Rozpościera się miedzy jcz. Wigry rra-póhcey, a rzeką Biebrzą na południu Powierzchnia ponad 1140 km2 (w tym ponad 60 km2 poza granicami Polski, głównie na terenie Litwy). Drzewostan to głównie sosna (73%), pozostały: świerk, olsza, brzoza, jesion, dąb. W runie leśnym zachowało się wiele reliktów: m.in. zimoziół północny i bażyna czarna. Puszcza Augustowska stanowi ostoję dla wielu rzadkich zwierząt: bobrów, rysiów, głuszców, orła bielika, bociana czarnego, gągołów i wielu innych. Dla ich zachowania utworzono Wigierski Park Narodowy oraz szereg rezerwatów przyrody. Do bardziej znanych zalicza się rezerwaty mające na celu ochronę stanowisk bobra. Puszcza Augustowska wchodziła niegdyś w skład wielkich dziewiczych puszcz rozciągających się na pograniczu Litwy, Mazowsza i Prus. Do XII w. zamieszkała była przez Jaćwingów wytępionych przez Krzyżaków. Od XV w., początek zagospodarowania (łowiectwo, bartnictwo, sianożęci). W XVI w. początek przemysłowego jej wykorzstania (rudnie, smolarnie, dziekciarnie, potażarnie, pozysk drewna). Największe zniszczenia nastąpiły w czasie I wojny światowej, Niemcy wycieli 15% jej drzewostanów (4 min m3 drzewa). Dużą atrakcją turystyczną Puszczy stanowi Kanał Augustowski wybudowany w latach 1823-1839, obecnie służy jako szlak kajakowy i trasa żeglugowa. Został uznany za zabytek techniki.

SZCZEBRA – wieś, początki wsi w XV w., na pewno istniała w XVI w. Nazwa najprawdopodobnej od jaćwieskiego słowa „steb” czyli „kamień” (w 1547 r. nazwa brzmiała: Stebra). W 1783 roku postanowiono ze Szczebry utworzyć miasto konkurencyjne dla Augustowa.Zamiaru nie udało się sfinalizować. Nieopodal miejscowości miejsce straceń ludności Augustowszczyzny – 8 tys. ludzi, głównie pochodzenia żydowskiego (1941 -1944).

JEZIORO ROSPUDA – pochodzenie nazwy jeziora podane zostało przy okazji opisu rzeki. Powierzchnia 107 ha; śr. głębokość 5.1 m, maks. 10 m; dł. 2700 m, szer. 400 m; długość linii brzegowej 6,4 km. Jezioro jest miejscem akumulacji materiału mineralnego niesionego przez rzekę, stwarza to doskonałe warunki denne dla żerowania miętusa, ryby niespotykanej winnych jeziorach augustowskich. Na jeziorze wyspa przez rybaków zwana Grądzikiem, przez wczasowiczów Wiankiem. Na jeziorze półwysep o szczególnej nazwie – Goła Zośka. Z obydwoma obiektami związane są legendy wyjaśniające nazwy.

AUGUSTÓW – miasto położone na Równinie Augustowskiej przy starym trakcie tzw. Starym Gościńcu z Grodna do Warszawy i Krakowa. Otoczone szeregiem jezior. Założone zostało w 1555 r przez król Zygmunta Augusta, prawa miejskie otrzymało w 1557 r. W czasie wojen szwedzkich miasto zniszczono. Odbudowane przez Jana Kazimierza, od 1808 r. Augustów był miastem powiatowym. W okresie międzywojennym stał się ważnym ośrodkiem turysty-czno-wczasowym. Okres II wojny światowej i okres tuż powojenny zapisał się tragicznie w historii miasta. W czasie okupacji miasto zostało zniszczone w 70 %. W mieście Muzeum Ziemi Augustowskiej oraz Muzeum Historii Kanału Augustowskiego.

1 171 myśli nt. „Rzeka Rospuda, szlak kajakowy i historia”

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